2022 – Nigel Slater’s Mango and Carrot Salad, Rum Schnaps and Mango Fool’s Recipes | a meal

THere is a wide, flat bowl on the kitchen counter, containing an array of seasonal fruits in need of ripening. A fig whose skin is torn if it sticks to the other. An apricot with rust-colored freckles, and, in late summer, a plum that shrivels and weeps when stacked in a bowl. Here I ripen avocados and paws and tends to thick-bottomed pears until they reach their moment of perfection. In May and June, mango peel is a safe haven for mangoes—small, soft and heavy with juicy, yellow skin like custard, and flesh as bright and cheery as a handful of amaranth. When they’re done, contrary to all the rules, cool them in the fridge. Cold mango with juice is an early summer treat in a class of its own. Round or oval and delicate like a bruise, few fruits are pleasant to the touch. They feel like a bar of soap that has become slippery with use, and the scent—sweet, nutty, slightly sweet—lingers in the warm summer air of the kitchen. A few of them come in costumes decorated with Quality Street coil-colored tinsel, which I leave in place. When the fruits ripen, they may present us with a pearl of nectar.

I ate them as they came, cut with a sharp pocket knife, their flat stones sucked up their sweet flesh. I also make a puree of it to stir with whipped cream or thick yogurt for an impromptu dessert, or cut it into matchsticks and toss it with crunchy carrots and a hot marinade of lemon juice, mint leaves, and crunchy dried chilies.

Mango and carrot salad with spicy tomato sauce

When serving the salad, please don’t forget to sprinkle a little lemon-herb dressing on it. Serves 4

for power:
Cucumber 100 grams
Carrots 175 g
pepper 1, yellow or small orange
radish 100 grams
sugar snap 50 g
mango 1, medium
rice noodles 75 g
cherry tomatoes 12

For dressing:
Tomatoes 175gm medium red
olive oil 50 ml
Lemonade 1½ tablespoons
garlic 1 small clove
salt ½ teaspoon
Red pepper 1, small
dried seasoning 1 teaspoon
Sugar a pinch
Crispy hot pepper in oil 3 teaspoons (to taste) Lao Gan Ma . brand

Lemon juice from 2
coriander leaves a bunch
Mint leaves a bunch

Fill a large bowl with cold water and ice cubes.

Prepare the salad: Peel the cucumber and cut it in half lengthwise. Scrape out the seeds and the moistened core with a teaspoon and discard. Cut the pulp into short pieces and then into thick matches. Drop them in the ice water. Peel the carrots (peel it if it is large), then chop the carrots into thick slices and chop them into similar size matchsticks and add them to the cucumbers. Cut the pepper in half, pull out its core and core, and cut the pepper into thin slices. Clean the radish, cut it into thin slices and add it to the ice water along with the pepper. Grate the snow peas well and add them to the water.

Set the kettle to boil. Peel the mango, cut the pulp from the stone and cut it into thin slices. Put them in a large mixing bowl. Put the pasta in a bowl, pour over boiling water and leave for 10 minutes. (If your pasta came with different manufacturer’s instructions, follow those instructions.) Slice the cherry tomatoes in half and add them to the mangoes.

Prepare the sauce: Cut the tomatoes in half and put them in the jug of the electric mixer. Add olive oil and lemon juice. Peel the garlic and put it in a blender, then add salt, red pepper (seeds), dried oregano and sugar. Mix with thick sauce.

Stir in Lao Gan Ma and check for seasoning – feel free to increase the amount of chili or add more salt or sugar to taste. The sauce should be on the hot side, as the mangoes and other vegetables will dilute the spices. Drain and shake the vegetables until dry, then drain the pasta and add to the mango and tomatoes. Pour the sauce and mix everything together gently. If you like cilantro, add the leaves to the salad and arrange on a serving plate. Finally, add lemon juice to a small bowl. Chop the coriander and mint and mix them with a little sea salt. Squeeze some lemon and herbal juice into each bowl.

mango bean yogurt

“The idea is that mango slices flow through the yogurt”: Mango Yogurt Fool with Sesame Rum Schnapps. Photo: Jonathan Lufkin/The Observer

Serves 4

mango 3, mature
Lemon 2 or 3
thick yogurt 250 ml

Peel the mango with a sharp small kitchen knife. Cut the pulp from the stone and put it in the bowl of a food processor. Grate the acid well. Roll the limes out onto your work surface and press firmly with the palm of your hand – this will soften the lemons and allow you to extract more juice. Cut the lemon in half and squeeze it into a small bowl (you will need at least 4 tablespoons of juice) Add the grated lemon peel to the mango and juice. Simmer until smooth, but be careful not to overwork the mixture or it will become sticky.

Put the yogurt in a mixing bowl and mix until smooth and thick, then add most of the puree and mix gently. The idea is that the mango slices flow through the yogurt instead of mixing everything at once. Serve the mango yogurt in cups or bowls with the remaining purée, a little zest, and sesame seeds underneath.

sesame snaps rum

makes about 12

golden powdered sugar 60 grams
golden liquid 60 grams
butter 60 grams
dark wine 1 teaspoon (or brandy)
pure flour 50 g
ground ginger ½ teaspoon
Sesame seeds 2 tea spoons

Preheat the oven to 170°C / gas mark 3. Lay the parchment paper on a baking tray. Heat the sugar, golden syrup, and butter in a small skillet over medium-high heat. Once the butter and sugar are melted and the mixture begins to boil, remove the saucepan from the heat and stir in the rum, flour, and ginger. Sprinkle sesame on it. Place about 2 heaped teaspoons into mounds of the mixture on the baking tray, leaving plenty of space in between. Spread in the oven. Bake for 7-8 minutes until golden brown. Remove from the oven and let cool for a few minutes, then carefully remove with a palette knife. Place on a wire rack and set aside. I like to give them a little more character by rotating them when you put them on the shelf. Serve with an asshole.

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